2014年1月14日星期二

True North points to artisan pizza in San Anselmo


True north.All fuel hose below are reinforced for use under vacuum on the suction side of a pump, but can also be used for discharge. Magnetic north. Grid north. These directional terms are important for explorers, sailors and pretty much anyone who needs to use a map to get where he or she's going. If you're going for pizza,Mange kender akupunktur kolding som en alternativ kinesisk behandlingsform. True North will take you to San Anselmo's newest pizza restaurant. "It's a fun, familiar name," says owner Buck Minitch. Minitch, who spent eight years in the Marine Corps, is also intimately familiar with the many usages of "north." Taking advantage of a double entendre, True North Artisan Pizza & Craft Beer uses the North Pole, or the North Star, Polaris, as a guide in its pizza philosophy and design.

Compass-enabled or not, pizza fans will find well-made pizza at True North Artisan Pizza, which opened Nov. 1, in the space that was briefly Zio Pizza, before that, Lo Coco's. Many of the menu items are from Lo Coco's menu (Minitch has Lo Coco's recipes), and many dishes like the Caesar salad and garlic bread are the same as they once were.

Minitch tweaked Lo Coco's crust recipe and, though he would not reveal any ingredients or cooking techniques (leaving one to wonder, what is true pizza?), the crust seemed to be a bit softer and stretchier than under previous ownership. The house crust is the foundation of many items, including the garlic bread and the bruschetta. Shaped and served like a mini-pizza, the bruschetta boasted beautiful, sweet tomatoes, brightened with fresh basil. Pizzas are small or large. Our combo arrived with a blistered crust, had a soft, subtle crunch and a pleasant chew.

Not so the gluten-free pizza. Though Minitch assured me that he has taken steps to correct the problem, the crust on the gluten-free pizza I ordered was so firm, it was difficult to chew and left me with an achy jaw. Minitch and his chefs developed their own gluten-free crust, and take pains to ensure these pizzas are prepared and cooked separately from gluten-bearing pizzas. Perhaps now, post-revision, the cooking method produces more favorable results. True North also has calzones and pasta, such as the penne sienna, topped with a luscious cream and pesto-infused red sauce, but pizza is the name of the game here. An expanded menu of barbecue ribs and wings, hot dogs, wienerschnitzel, sliders and soup is expected shortly.

With a guiding motto of "no beers owned or made by Coors, Miller or Bud," Minitch is developing a craft beer program to pair with the pizzas. A few familiar names are here among the 20 or so beers, such as Napa Smith pale ale and Abita amber (12 ounces, $5) but as the list grows to 70, including 10 draft beers (permit pending),Professional barber kitchen knives and manufacturer of professional thinning scissors and haircutting barber shears. expect more unique choices like the Nectar Humboldt brown hemp ale. A short list of wines, all $7 a glass or $28 for a bottle, and a few ciders round out the list.

Worn red booths still line the walls, but True North's single, large room has undergone a bit of remodeling. The rafters are gone, exposing a girder ceiling that resembles a bridge's latticework. Photos of bridges hang from the freshly painted red walls. The lighting, redone by Minitch, features small bulbs hung from long cables. You could say the pinpoint lighting resembles stars, but that might be stretching the star metaphor a bit too far. Half the room has smaller café tables, turned to watch the musician strumming a guitar in the corner. Live music six nights a week and at Sunday brunch adds bounce, enlivening the room. The atmosphere is convivial. Kids and parents might get up to dance or to chat with Minitch and the musicians. Some switch seats after dining to listen more attentively.

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